/* TINJAN — Istrian Stories | independent editorial travel guide */
:root {
  --ink:#26332b; --pine:#263a2f; --pine2:#1b3028;
  --paper:#f8f6f0; --cream:#f2efe7; --oat:#eae7dd;
  --line:#d9d6cd; --muted:#777b70; --rust:#aa765b;
  --serif:'Cormorant Garamond',Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;
  --sans:'DM Sans',-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',sans-serif;
  --header-h:84px; --max:1440px;
}
*,*:before,*:after{box-sizing:border-box}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:100px}
body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:400 14px/1.8 var(--sans);-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;overflow-x:hidden}
body.dialog-open{overflow:hidden}
button,input,select{font:inherit}
button{cursor:pointer}
a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}
a:hover{color:var(--rust)}
img{max-width:100%;display:block}
::selection{background:var(--rust);color:#fff}
:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--rust);outline-offset:5px}
.container{width:min(var(--max),calc(100% - clamp(42px,9.1vw,180px)));margin-inline:auto}
.section-space{padding-block:clamp(90px,11vw,174px)}
.eyebrow,.smallcaps,.kicker{font:600 10px/1.3 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.24em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--rust)}
h1,h2,h3,h4,p{margin-top:0}
h1,h2,h3{font-weight:400}
h1,h2,h3,.serif{font-family:var(--serif)}
h2{font-size:clamp(56px,6vw,100px);letter-spacing:-.035em;line-height:.93}
h3{letter-spacing:-.022em}
p{color:inherit}
.skip{position:fixed;left:12px;top:-120px;background:#fff;padding:14px 25px;z-index:150}
.skip:focus{top:12px}
.site-header{height:var(--header-h);position:relative;z-index:80;width:100%;background:rgba(249,247,242,.975);border-bottom:1px solid rgba(40,54,43,.13);display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;padding:0 clamp(21px,3.9vw,74px);gap:25px;transition:background .25s,box-shadow .25s}
.site-header.scrolled{box-shadow:0 10px 35px #22322812}
.wordmark{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:15px;flex-shrink:0}
.logo-mark{width:35px;height:42px;border:1px solid var(--pine);display:grid;place-items:center;position:relative}
.logo-t{font:500 30px/.85 var(--serif);transform:translateY(1px)}
.logo-point{position:absolute;font-size:6px;color:var(--rust);bottom:3px;right:6px}
.logo-type{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:3px;line-height:1.25}
.logo-type b{font-weight:500;font-size:18px;letter-spacing:.24em;line-height:1}
.logo-type>span{font-size:7px;letter-spacing:.26em;color:#7d7f74}
.primary-nav{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:clamp(22px,3vw,52px);margin-left:auto;justify-content:flex-end}
.primary-nav>a{font-size:10px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.115em;font-weight:600;color:#445148;white-space:nowrap;position:relative;padding:10px 0}
.primary-nav>a::after{content:'';position:absolute;bottom:5px;left:0;right:100%;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rust);transition:right .2s}
.primary-nav>a:hover:after,.primary-nav>a[aria-current='page']::after{right:0}
.nav-tools{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:clamp(12px,1.8vw,27px)}
.lang{position:relative}
.lang summary{list-style:none;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:9px;cursor:pointer;border-left:1px solid var(--line);padding:0 10px 0 20px;min-height:37px;font:600 11px/1.3 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.06em;user-select:none}
.lang summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.globe{font-size:22px;font-weight:300;line-height:1}
.chev{font-size:16px;color:var(--rust);margin-left:4px;transform:translateY(-1px)}
.lang[open] .chev{transform:rotate(180deg) translateY(1px)}
.language-list{position:absolute;top:calc(100% + 24px);right:-15px;background:#faf8f2;border:1px solid var(--line);box-shadow:0 24px 62px #13291e22;width:230px;max-height:min(520px,70vh);overflow:auto;padding:11px;z-index:130}
.language-list>a{display:grid;grid-template-columns:37px 1fr 15px;align-items:center;padding:10px 11px;gap:5px;font-size:12px;line-height:1.4;color:var(--ink)}
.language-list>a:hover,.language-list>a[aria-current='page']{background:#eeebe1;color:var(--pine)}
.lang-code{font:700 10px var(--sans);letter-spacing:.08em;color:var(--rust)}
.lang-check{color:var(--rust)}
.menu-toggle{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:15px;background:transparent;border:0;border-left:1px solid var(--line);color:var(--ink);padding:9px 0 9px 24px}
.menu-text{font-size:10px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.11em;font-weight:600}
.burger{width:22px;height:14px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:space-around}
.burger i{width:22px;border-top:1px solid currentColor;transition:transform .3s}
.burger i:last-child{width:16px;margin-left:auto}
.menu-toggle:hover .burger i:last-child{width:22px}
/* Overlay navigation */
.nav-dialog{position:fixed;inset:0;margin:0;width:100%;height:100dvh;max-width:100%;max-height:100dvh;border:0;background:var(--pine);color:var(--paper);padding:0;overflow-y:auto;overflow-x:hidden}
.nav-dialog::backdrop{background:#12251bdd}
.nav-dialog[open]{animation:menuin .27s ease both}
@keyframes menuin{from{opacity:0;transform:translateY(-10px)}to{opacity:1;transform:translateY(0)}}
.menu-inner{min-height:100%;width:min(1200px,calc(100% - 100px));margin:auto;display:flex;flex-direction:column;padding:30px 0 40px}
.menu-top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;border-bottom:1px solid #f8f6f02b;padding-bottom:25px}
.menu-top .smallcaps{color:#d0bead}
.close-button{display:flex;gap:16px;align-items:center;border:0;background:transparent;color:#fff;text-transform:uppercase;font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.13em;padding:12px}
.close-button:first-letter{font-size:18px}
.menu-overline{font:400 clamp(22px,3vw,39px)/1.15 var(--serif);font-style:italic;color:#d1beaa;margin:clamp(28px,6vh,65px) 0 20px}
.menu-links{display:grid;max-width:1000px}
.menu-links>a{color:#f8f6f0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:60px 1fr 40px;align-items:center;border-bottom:1px solid #f8f6f028;padding:clamp(5px,1.3vh,12px) 0;font:300 clamp(45px,6.3vw,105px)/1.02 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.03em}
.menu-links>a:hover{color:#e3bfa5}
.menu-index{font:500 10px var(--sans);letter-spacing:.1em;color:#bd9d85}
.menu-arrow{font:300 33px var(--serif);text-align:right;color:#d7b094}
.menu-bottom{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;margin-top:auto;padding-top:34px;font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.06em}
.menu-bottom>a{color:#e3cbbb}
/* Shared photography: elegantly visible credits and fallbacks. */
.photo-wrap{position:relative;margin:0;background:#8c9b84;overflow:hidden;isolation:isolate}
.photo-wrap:before{content:'';position:absolute;inset:0;background:#617061 url('/assets/photo-fallback.svg') center/cover no-repeat;z-index:0}
.photo-wrap>img{position:relative;z-index:1;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:var(--photo-position,center);transition:transform .9s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.22,1);background:transparent}
a:hover .photo-wrap>img{transform:scale(1.035)}
.image-credit{position:absolute;bottom:12px;right:14px;z-index:4;font:500 9px/1.3 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.06em;color:white;text-shadow:0 1px 7px #0008;background:#17291f45;padding:5px 8px;backdrop-filter:blur(7px)}
.image-credit a{color:white}
/* Hero */
.hero{display:grid;grid-template-columns:47.2% 52.8%;height:clamp(635px,calc(100svh - var(--header-h)),930px);min-height:620px;overflow:hidden}
.hero-copy{background:var(--cream);padding:clamp(48px,5.2vw,100px) clamp(35px,5.5vw,105px) clamp(40px,4vw,75px) clamp(42px,6.65vw,134px);display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-start;justify-content:center;min-width:0;position:relative}
.hero-copy>.eyebrow{margin:0 0 clamp(36px,5.7vh,72px)}
.hero h1{font:300 clamp(75px,8vw,150px)/.81 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.045em;color:var(--pine);margin:0;max-width:100%;overflow-wrap:normal}
.hero h1 em{font-weight:300;color:var(--rust);font-style:italic}
.hero-rule{margin:clamp(35px,5.7vh,60px) 0 22px;border-top:1px solid var(--rust);width:70px}
.hero-copy>p{font:400 clamp(13px,1.05vw,15px)/1.93 var(--sans);color:#5e685d;max-width:400px;margin-bottom:28px}
.button-dark{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:37px;background:var(--pine);color:#fff;padding:19px 23px;min-width:215px;font:600 10px/1.2 var(--sans);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.12em;transition:background .2s,transform .2s}
.button-dark:hover{background:#526c56;color:#fff;transform:translateY(-2px)}
.button-dark>span:last-child{font-size:17px;font-weight:400}
.hero-footnote{position:absolute;left:clamp(42px,6.65vw,134px);bottom:31px;color:#8c9082;font:600 9px/1.2 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.2em}
.hero-visual{position:relative;min-width:0;overflow:hidden;background:#6c816f}
.hero-picture{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;background:#7e8c79}
.hero-visual:after{content:'';position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(0deg,#182e285e 0%,transparent 40%);pointer-events:none;z-index:2}
.hero-photo-label{position:absolute;bottom:31px;left:38px;right:30px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;color:#fff;z-index:3;font:600 10px var(--sans);letter-spacing:.22em;text-shadow:0 1px 9px #17201780}
.hero-side-label{position:absolute;z-index:3;right:26px;top:50%;writing-mode:vertical-rl;transform:translateY(-50%);color:#fffc;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.24em;font-weight:500}
.hero-article{height:min(750px,calc(100svh - var(--header-h)));min-height:565px}
.hero-article .hero h1,.hero-article h1{font-size:clamp(72px,7.1vw,134px);line-height:.86;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
.article-copy>.eyebrow{margin-bottom:45px}
.article-copy>p{max-width:410px}
/* Intro */
.manifesto-top{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding-bottom:25px}
.delicate-symbol{font:300 34px var(--serif);color:#bc947b;line-height:.7}
.manifesto-body{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr .6fr;gap:10%;align-items:end;padding-top:60px}
.manifesto h2{font:300 clamp(55px,6.8vw,116px)/.99 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.04em;max-width:1020px;margin:0}
.manifesto h2 em{font-style:italic;color:var(--rust)}
.manifesto p{color:#73796f;line-height:2.1;font-size:13px;max-width:330px;margin:0 0 10px}
/* Story cards */
.soft-bg{background:#f0ede5}
.section-head{display:flex;align-items:end;justify-content:space-between;gap:30px;padding-bottom:45px}
.section-head .eyebrow{display:block;margin-bottom:22px}
.section-head h2{margin:0}
.title-period{color:var(--rust)}
.section-head>p{font-size:12px;max-width:220px;line-height:1.8;color:#7e8379;align-self:end;margin:0 0 5px}
.home-story-grid,.story-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:clamp(18px,2vw,37px)}
.home-story{display:block;min-width:0}
.home-story-photo{height:clamp(290px,33vw,485px)}
.home-story-line{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:9px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:23px;padding-bottom:14px}
.home-story-line .kicker{font-size:9px}
.home-story-line>span:last-child{font-size:17px;color:var(--rust)}
.home-story h3{font:400 clamp(35px,3.5vw,60px)/1.03 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.035em;margin:17px 0 7px}
.home-story p,.story-card>p{font-size:12px;line-height:1.9;color:#7d8177;max-width:360px;margin:0}
.home-story:hover h3,.story-card:hover h3{color:var(--rust)}
/* Feature */
.place-feature{display:grid;grid-template-columns:51% 49%;align-items:start;gap:0}
.feature-photo{height:clamp(670px,64vw,855px)}
.tall-photo{width:100%;height:100%}
.feature-copy{padding:clamp(40px,6vw,110px) 0 0 clamp(50px,7vw,135px)}
.feature-copy .eyebrow{display:block;margin-bottom:32px}
.feature-copy h2{font:300 clamp(56px,7vw,114px)/.93 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.05em;margin:0 0 29px}
.feature-copy>p{font-size:13px;color:#798074;line-height:2.05;max-width:390px;margin-bottom:34px}
.text-link{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:32px;padding-bottom:12px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rust);font:600 10px/1.2 var(--sans);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.14em;color:var(--pine)}
.text-link>span{font-size:15px;color:var(--rust)}
.feature-small{width:min(340px,80%);margin:clamp(55px,7vw,115px) 0 0 auto}
.landscape-photo{height:220px}
.feature-small>span{display:block;margin-top:12px;font:600 9px var(--sans);letter-spacing:.16em;color:var(--muted);text-align:right}
/* Pull quote */
.quote-section{background:var(--pine);color:var(--paper);text-align:center;padding:clamp(90px,12vw,180px) 0 clamp(60px,8vw,120px);position:relative;overflow:hidden}
.quote-section:before,.quote-section:after{content:'✳';position:absolute;font:300 320px var(--serif);opacity:.04;line-height:1}
.quote-section:before{left:-60px;top:15px}.quote-section:after{right:-35px;bottom:-140px}
.quote-section .eyebrow{color:#c9a992}
.quote-section p{max-width:1070px;margin:32px auto 28px;font:300 clamp(46px,6.7vw,112px)/1.04 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.035em}
.quote-ornament{font:300 30px var(--serif);color:#c9a992}
/* Gastronomy */
.tasting-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:42% 58%;gap:0;align-items:center}
.tasting-copy{padding-right:clamp(55px,6vw,100px)}
.tasting-copy>.eyebrow{display:block;margin-bottom:32px}
.tasting-copy h2{margin:0 0 30px;font:300 clamp(60px,6.7vw,110px)/.94 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.04em}
.tasting-copy>p{font-size:13px;line-height:2.05;color:#797f73;max-width:390px;margin-bottom:29px}
.tasting-picture{min-width:0;position:relative}
.wide-photo{height:clamp(440px,46vw,680px)}
.photo-caveat{font-size:9px;color:#82877d;text-align:right;margin-top:9px}
.mini-label{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:16px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:18px;margin:55px 0 7px}
.mini-label>span:first-child{font:400 40px/.8 var(--serif);color:var(--rust)}
.mini-label>span:last-child{font:600 9px var(--sans);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#70786b}
.quiet-outbound{font-size:10px;color:#7a7e73;text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-color:#baa68f;text-underline-offset:5px}
/* Visit in a day */
.day-section{display:grid;grid-template-columns:42% 58%;gap:0}
.day-label>.eyebrow{display:block;margin-bottom:32px}
.day-label h2{max-width:400px;font:300 clamp(60px,6.4vw,100px)/.99 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.035em}
.day-steps{padding-left:clamp(45px,7vw,115px)}
.day-step{display:grid;grid-template-columns:63px 1fr;gap:12px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:26px 0 31px}
.day-step:first-child{padding-top:0}
.step-n{font:300 28px var(--serif);color:var(--rust)}
.day-step h3{font:400 clamp(32px,3vw,47px)/1 var(--serif);margin:0 0 9px}
.day-step p{font-size:12px;color:#82877b;line-height:1.85;max-width:490px;margin:0}
.button-outline{display:inline-flex;gap:65px;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;color:var(--pine);border:1px solid var(--pine);padding:18px 23px;margin-top:32px;min-width:245px;font:600 10px var(--sans);letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase}
.button-outline:hover{color:#fff;background:var(--pine)}
.button-outline>span{font-size:17px}
.season-band{background:#e8dfd3;padding:55px 0}
.season-inner{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.3fr .7fr;gap:60px;align-items:center}
.season-inner .eyebrow{color:#a56e56}
.season-inner h2{font:300 clamp(43px,5vw,75px)/1 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.035em;margin:11px 0 0}
.season-inner>p{font-size:12px;color:#77776e;line-height:2;margin:0}
/* Article pages */
.fact-strip{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--paper)}
.fact-strip>.container{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:0}
.fact-strip .container>div{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:21px;padding:32px 28px;border-right:1px solid var(--line);min-width:0}
.fact-strip .container>div:first-child{padding-left:0}
.fact-strip .container>div:last-child{border-right:0}
.fact-number{font:300 31px var(--serif);color:var(--rust);flex:0 0 auto}
.fact-strip strong{font:600 10px/1.7 var(--sans);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}
.article-content{display:grid;grid-template-columns:38% 62%;align-items:start}
.article-col-head{position:sticky;top:25px;padding-right:clamp(45px,6vw,95px)}
.article-col-head>.eyebrow{display:block;margin:8px 0 40px}
.article-col-head h2{font:300 clamp(62px,6vw,99px)/.97 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.04em;overflow-wrap:anywhere;margin:0 0 32px}
.article-col-head p{font-size:12px;max-width:270px;line-height:2;color:#858981}
.article-col-body{padding-left:clamp(35px,6vw,100px);border-left:1px solid var(--line)}
.chapter{display:grid;grid-template-columns:60px 1fr;gap:15px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:47px 0 54px}
.chapter:first-child{padding-top:0}
.chapter-index{font:500 10px var(--sans);color:var(--rust);letter-spacing:.12em;margin-top:10px}
.chapter h2{font:400 clamp(34px,3.7vw,59px)/1.09 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.02em;margin:0 0 17px}
.chapter p{font-size:13px;line-height:2.15;color:#666e65;max-width:610px;margin:0}
.source-aside{margin:50px 0 0 75px;padding:26px 31px;background:#ede9df;display:grid;gap:13px}
.source-aside .eyebrow{margin-bottom:4px}
.source-aside>a{font-size:11px;line-height:1.5;word-break:break-word;text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-color:#cbb6a3;text-underline-offset:4px}
.article-interlude{display:grid;grid-template-columns:32% 68%;align-items:end;gap:0;padding-top:0}
.interlude-copy{background:#ebe6dc;padding:45px 50px 60px;min-height:315px;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;flex-direction:column}
.interlude-copy p{font:300 clamp(25px,2.8vw,45px)/1.2 var(--serif);margin:40px 0 0}
.interlude-photo{height:520px}
.story-card{min-width:0;display:block}
.card-photo{height:330px}
.card-index{display:block;padding:18px 0 13px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font:600 9px var(--sans);color:#a47560;letter-spacing:.16em}
.card-title{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:15px;justify-content:space-between}
.card-title h3{font:400 clamp(34px,3.1vw,49px)/1 var(--serif);margin:19px 0 11px}
.card-arrow{font-size:22px;color:var(--rust)}
/* FAQ & orientation */
.faq-section{background:var(--cream);padding:clamp(80px,11vw,150px) 0}
.faq-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:37% 63%}
.faq-grid h2{margin:25px 0 0}
.faq-items{padding-left:clamp(25px,5vw,90px)}
.faq-items details{border-bottom:1px solid #cbcfc3}
.faq-items summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:20px;padding:24px 0;font:400 clamp(24px,2.5vw,37px)/1.15 var(--serif)}
.faq-items summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.faq-items summary>span{font:300 24px var(--serif);color:var(--rust)}
.faq-items details[open] summary>span{transform:rotate(45deg)}
.faq-items details p{font-size:13px;color:#767f73;max-width:550px;line-height:1.9;margin:-5px 0 23px}
.orientation{display:grid;grid-template-columns:47% 53%;align-items:stretch;padding-block:clamp(80px,9vw,140px);min-height:600px}
.orientation>div:first-child{background:#e9e4da;padding:clamp(35px,5vw,75px);display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-start;justify-content:center}
.orientation h2{font-size:clamp(54px,5.4vw,84px);margin:40px 0 18px}
.orientation p{font-size:13px;line-height:2;color:#6f756d;margin-bottom:25px;max-width:390px}
.orientation-photo{min-height:560px}
.orientation-image{width:100%;height:100%}
/* Credits */
.plain-head{padding:130px 0 70px;max-width:1100px}
.plain-head h1{font:300 clamp(70px,8.8vw,138px)/.96 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.04em;margin:24px 0}
.plain-head p{font-size:13px;line-height:2;max-width:650px;color:#717a70}
.photo-sources{padding-bottom:120px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr .6fr;gap:80px}
.photo-sources ul{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}
.photo-sources li{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:19px 0;font-size:13px;line-height:1.7;color:#596558}
.photo-sources a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px;text-decoration-color:#bea28b}
.source-pane{padding:45px;background:var(--cream);align-self:start;display:grid;gap:21px}
.source-pane h2{font-size:43px;margin:0}
.source-pane>a{font-size:12px}
/* Network links and footer */
.journey-section{background:#293e33;color:#f7f2e9;padding:clamp(100px,11vw,160px) 0}
.journey-inner{display:grid;grid-template-columns:49% 51%;align-items:start;gap:0}
.journey-inner>div:first-child{padding-right:clamp(45px,6vw,105px)}
.on-dark{color:#c9ab90}
.journey-inner h2{font:300 clamp(48px,4.8vw,80px)/1.06 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.025em;margin:25px 0 0}
.journey-links{padding-left:clamp(30px,5vw,90px)}
.journey-links>a{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 35px;align-items:center;border-bottom:1px solid #e7ede338;padding:22px 0 25px;gap:0}
.journey-links>a:first-child{border-top:1px solid #e7ede338}
.journey-links>a>span:first-child{grid-column:1 / 3;color:#cfb39d;font:600 10px var(--sans);letter-spacing:.07em;margin-bottom:6px}
.journey-links strong{font:300 clamp(39px,3.9vw,62px)/1.2 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.02em;color:#fff;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
.journey-links .arrow{color:#e9c4ab;font:400 25px var(--serif);text-align:right}
.journey-links>a:hover strong{color:#dbb393}
.footer{background:#1b2e26;color:#eeefe6;padding:clamp(65px,6vw,100px) 0 30px}
.footer-heading{display:flex;align-items:end;justify-content:space-between;gap:30px;padding-bottom:90px}
.footer-heading .smallcaps{color:#b68b72}
.footer-heading p{font:300 clamp(25px,2.6vw,41px)/1.1 var(--serif);max-width:310px;margin-top:21px;color:#becfc2}
.footer-big{font:300 clamp(130px,21vw,350px)/.75 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.08em;color:#f1efe5}
.footer-big span{color:#ba8669}
.footer-bottom{border-top:1px solid #ffffff2c;padding:25px 0 34px;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:30px;font-size:10px;color:#b0bcb2}
.footer-bottom>div{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:9px}
.footer-bottom nav{display:flex;justify-content:flex-end;gap:clamp(14px,1.7vw,34px);align-items:flex-start;flex-wrap:wrap}
.footer-bottom a,.footer-legal a{color:#ced7cd}
.footer-bottom a:hover,.footer-legal a:hover{color:#e2b897}
.footer-legal{border-top:1px solid #ffffff20;padding-top:26px;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;flex-wrap:wrap;font-size:10px;color:#a7b3a9}
.footer-tiny{font-size:11px}
@media (min-width:1500px){.hero-copy{padding-left:clamp(100px,7vw,160px)}}
@media (max-width:1100px){
  .primary-nav{gap:20px}
  .hero-copy{padding-left:6vw;padding-right:3.3vw}
  .hero-footnote{left:6vw}
  .hero h1{font-size:clamp(67px,8.5vw,107px)}
  .article-copy h1{font-size:clamp(59px,7.6vw,93px)}
  .feature-copy{padding-left:6vw}
  .feature-small{width:80%}
}
@media (max-width:900px){
  :root{--header-h:73px}
  .container{width:calc(100% - 64px)}
  .primary-nav{display:none}
  .site-header{padding-inline:32px}
  .nav-tools{margin-left:auto}
  .hero{grid-template-columns:48% 52%;min-height:630px;height:710px}
  .hero-copy{padding-left:32px;padding-right:27px}
  .hero h1{font-size:clamp(73px,9vw,102px)}
  .article-copy h1{font-size:clamp(65px,8vw,87px)}
  .hero-copy p{font-size:13px}
  .hero-footnote{left:32px}
  .hero-copy>.eyebrow{margin-bottom:45px}
  .manifesto-body{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:40px}
  .place-feature{grid-template-columns:48% 52%}
  .feature-photo{height:690px}
  .feature-copy{padding-top:45px;padding-left:45px}
  .feature-small{margin-top:55px}
  .tasting-copy{padding-right:30px}
  .article-content{grid-template-columns:36% 64%}
  .article-col-body{padding-left:30px}
  .chapter{grid-template-columns:44px 1fr;gap:9px}
  .source-aside{margin-left:52px}
}
@media (max-width:700px){
  :root{--header-h:68px}
  .container{width:calc(100% - 42px)}
  .section-space{padding-block:82px}
  .site-header{padding:0 21px;gap:11px}
  .wordmark{gap:10px}
  .logo-mark{width:31px;height:36px}
  .logo-t{font-size:26px}
  .logo-type b{font-size:16px;letter-spacing:.18em}
  .logo-type>span{font-size:6px;letter-spacing:.22em}
  .nav-tools{gap:9px}
  .lang summary{padding:0 6px 0 10px;gap:5px;font-size:10px;border-left:0}
  .globe{font-size:19px}
  .chev{font-size:13px;margin-left:1px}
  .menu-toggle{padding:10px 0 10px 12px}
  .menu-text{display:none}
  .burger{width:21px}
  .language-list{right:-46px;top:calc(100% + 17px);width:214px}
  .menu-inner{width:calc(100% - 42px);padding:22px 0 28px}
  .menu-top{padding-bottom:16px}
  .menu-overline{margin:40px 0 24px;font-size:30px}
  .menu-links>a{font-size:clamp(42px,10.5vw,72px);grid-template-columns:32px 1fr 28px;padding:12px 0}
  .menu-index{font-size:9px}
  .menu-arrow{font-size:24px}
  .menu-bottom{font-size:11px;padding-top:32px;flex-wrap:wrap}
  /* Mobile cinematic hero with titles legible over image. */
  .hero,.hero-article{height:auto;min-height:unset;display:block;position:relative;background:#52604d}
  .hero-home{min-height:max(635px,calc(92svh - var(--header-h)))}
  .hero-article{min-height:575px}
  .hero-visual{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;z-index:0}
  .hero-visual:after{background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(20,31,25,.12) 0%,rgba(20,31,25,.19) 30%,rgba(18,29,24,.77) 100%)}
  .hero-picture{position:absolute;inset:0}
  .hero-home .hero-picture>img{object-position:center 35%}
  .hero-copy{position:relative;z-index:4;width:100%;min-height:max(635px,calc(92svh - var(--header-h)));background:transparent;color:#fff;padding:83px 24px 56px;justify-content:flex-end}
  .hero-article .hero-copy{min-height:575px;padding-top:80px;padding-bottom:70px}
  .hero-copy>.eyebrow{color:#e8cebb;margin-bottom:40px;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.22em}
  .hero h1{font-size:clamp(93px,19vw,142px);color:#fff;line-height:.78;letter-spacing:-.04em;text-shadow:0 2px 45px rgba(8,22,12,.07)}
  .hero h1 em{color:#efc8ac}
  .hero-article h1{font-size:clamp(82px,14.2vw,110px);line-height:.83;overflow-wrap:break-word;max-width:610px}
  .hero-rule{border-color:#e8c7ad;margin:27px 0 16px}
  .hero-copy>p{color:#f6f6ef;line-height:1.8;font-size:12px;max-width:390px;margin:0 0 21px}
  .hero .button-dark{background:var(--paper);color:var(--pine);padding:16px 18px;min-width:197px;font-size:9px}
  .hero .button-dark:hover{background:#ecdccf}
  .hero-footnote{bottom:18px;left:24px;font-size:8px;color:#e9e5d4}
  .hero-photo-label,.hero-side-label{display:none}
  .manifesto-top{padding-bottom:17px}
  .manifesto-body{display:block;padding-top:32px}
  .manifesto h2{font-size:clamp(54px,11vw,78px);line-height:.98;margin-bottom:24px}
  .manifesto p{font-size:12px;max-width:430px}
  .section-head{display:block;padding-bottom:27px}
  .section-head h2{font-size:64px}
  .section-head>p{margin-top:17px;max-width:470px}
  .home-story-grid,.story-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:45px}
  .home-story-photo{height:min(115vw,570px)}
  .home-story-line{margin-top:15px;padding-bottom:12px}
  .home-story h3{font-size:58px;margin-top:13px}
  .place-feature{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:0}
  .feature-photo{width:100%;height:490px}
  .feature-copy{padding:48px 0 0;width:100%}
  .feature-copy>.eyebrow{margin-bottom:23px}
  .feature-copy h2{font-size:72px;max-width:490px;margin-bottom:20px}
  .feature-copy>p{font-size:12px;line-height:2}
  .feature-small{width:72%;margin:44px 0 0 auto}
  .landscape-photo{height:190px}
  .quote-section{padding:88px 0 60px}
  .quote-section p{font-size:clamp(49px,10vw,75px);line-height:1.02}
  .tasting-grid{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:32px}
  .tasting-copy{padding-right:0;width:100%}
  .tasting-copy>.eyebrow{margin-bottom:24px}
  .tasting-copy h2{font-size:77px;max-width:540px}
  .tasting-copy>p{font-size:12px}
  .tasting-picture{width:100%}
  .wide-photo{height:450px}
  .mini-label{margin-top:40px}
  .day-section{display:block}
  .day-label h2{font-size:72px;max-width:520px;margin-bottom:34px}
  .day-steps{padding-left:0}
  .day-step{grid-template-columns:54px 1fr}
  .day-step h3{font-size:39px}
  .season-inner{display:block}
  .season-inner h2{font-size:51px;margin-bottom:16px}
  .season-inner>p{max-width:540px}
  .fact-strip>.container{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:0}
  .fact-strip .container>div{padding:15px 0;border-right:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
  .fact-strip .container>div:last-child{border-bottom:0}
  .fact-number{font-size:27px}
  .article-content{display:block}
  .article-col-head{position:relative;top:auto;padding:0 0 40px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
  .article-col-head>.eyebrow{margin:0 0 24px}
  .article-col-head h2{font-size:70px;margin-bottom:15px}
  .article-col-head p{max-width:430px}
  .article-col-body{padding:44px 0 0;border:0}
  .chapter{grid-template-columns:46px 1fr;gap:4px;padding:34px 0 38px}
  .chapter:first-child{padding-top:0}
  .chapter h2{font-size:42px}
  .chapter p{font-size:12px;line-height:2}
  .source-aside{margin:32px 0 0 0;padding:22px}
  .article-interlude{display:flex;flex-direction:column;padding-top:0;gap:0}
  .interlude-copy{min-height:unset;width:100%;padding:30px}
  .interlude-copy p{font-size:31px;margin:16px 0 0}
  .interlude-photo{width:100%;height:350px}
  .card-photo{height:360px}
  .card-title h3{font-size:45px}
  .faq-grid{display:block}
  .faq-grid h2{font-size:65px;margin:20px 0 30px}
  .faq-items{padding-left:0}
  .faq-items summary{font-size:29px}
  .orientation{display:block;min-height:unset}
  .orientation>div:first-child{padding:37px 30px}
  .orientation h2{font-size:61px;margin:25px 0 15px}
  .orientation-photo{min-height:0;height:385px}
  .journey-inner{display:block}
  .journey-inner>div:first-child{padding-right:0}
  .journey-inner h2{font-size:58px;max-width:600px}
  .journey-links{padding:45px 0 0}
  .journey-links strong{font-size:51px}
  .footer-heading{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-start;gap:46px;padding-bottom:56px}
  .footer-heading p{font-size:30px;margin-top:16px}
  .footer-big{font-size:clamp(120px,24vw,230px)}
  .footer-bottom{display:block}
  .footer-bottom nav{justify-content:flex-start;margin-top:25px;gap:13px 21px}
  .footer-legal{justify-content:flex-start;gap:12px 27px}
  .photo-sources{display:block;padding-bottom:90px}
  .source-pane{margin-top:40px}
  .plain-head{padding:84px 0 47px}
  .plain-head h1{font-size:78px}
}
@media (max-width:380px){
  .logo-type>span{letter-spacing:.08em}
  .logo-type b{font-size:15px}
  .nav-tools{gap:1px}
  .lang summary{padding-left:6px}
  .hero h1{font-size:95px}
  .hero-article h1{font-size:68px}
  .hero-copy{padding-inline:19px}
  .hero-footnote{left:19px}
  .home-story h3{font-size:49px}
  .feature-copy h2,.day-label h2,.tasting-copy h2{font-size:63px}
  .journey-links strong{font-size:40px}
  .footer-big{font-size:112px}
  .chapter{grid-template-columns:39px 1fr}
  .chapter h2{font-size:36px}
  .container{width:calc(100% - 36px)}
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*,*:before,*:after{transition-duration:.01ms!important;animation-duration:.01ms!important}}

.source-aside .route-note{margin:0 0 4px;color:#657064;font-size:12px;line-height:1.7}

/* Only show this illustration when the original and all backup photo hosts fail. */
.photo-wrap.photo-unavailable>img{opacity:0!important}
.photo-wrap.photo-unavailable .image-credit{display:none}